Bonefishing Report from Capt. Rick Grassett

Capt. Rick Grassett, is a full-time fishing guide and outdoor writer based in Sarasota, FL. He’s a great host and a super guy, and as luck would have it he hosts a group at Andros South each year.

Here’s Capt. Grassett’s report from last week. Thanks Rick!

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I spent the last week from Saturday, May 2nd through Saturday, May 9th, hosting a group of friends and customers at Andros South bonefish lodge on South Andros in the Bahamas. Nick Reding, Bob Harness and Bob Reynolds, all from St. Louis, MO, Frank Rhodes, from Auburndale, FL, Hal Lutz, from Parrish, FL and Jon Yenari and I, from Sarasota, met in Ft. Lauderdale on Saturday afternoon, May 2nd. We had a smooth, one hour flight over on a Lynx Air twin engine Cessna 402 and were greeted by managers Rick Sisler and Kateri Clay.

The weather and fishing were near perfect! I had an opportunity to fish with each member of the group and fish a variety of areas. Some days were better than others and some days were fantastic! Anglers fishing the vast sand flats to the south fished near Jackfish Channel, the Water Cays, Curly Cut Cays, Fish Key and the “airport flat”. Some of these flats are so big they go all the way to the horizon. Frank and Jon had a great day at the “airport flat” one day catching and releasing more than 50 bones. Hal and I fished the south end one day and had a great morning wading along a mangrove shoreline on a flood tide. We caught 15 or 20 fish before noon. Frank, Jon, Hal and Kateri went offshore one day and landed more than 30 mahi mahi (dolphin) to 12-pounds on flies and conventional tackle. Their first mahis on fly!

Several creeks – Deep Creek, Little Creek and Grassy Creek all cut through to the west side, crossing the ”Devil’s Backbone” ridge and open up into large flats and salt ponds with smaller creeks feeding into them. We caught lots and lots of bonefish to 6-pounds with most of them in the 2 to 3-pound class. Some were smaller and a few were even bigger. Another angler at the lodge, John from British Columbia, landed an 8-pounder one day. Bob Reynolds and I had a great day on a huge school over on the west side one day with guide, Fredlon. We waded and doubled and tripled for more than an hour. I also landed a 30-pound ‘cuda that day! Nick and I fished with Torrie one day and learned a lot about targeting big bonefish.

Even though catching lots of fish out of a big school is a lot of fun, the most rewarding to me is stalking singles, doubles and smaller schools. A couple of the most rewarding fish I caught were tailing on a slick, calm morning when we had to wade like a “heron” and make a perfect cast to catch them! Top flies were Gotchas, Peterson’s Spawning Shrimp and variations of them. We also encountered lots of sharks and ‘cudas. Several ‘cudas, up to 30-pounds, were landed on flies and conventional tackle.

Bob Reynolds from St. Louis, Mo, with a nice South Andros bonefish
Photo: Rick Grassett

I hated to come back to the real world, but the good thing is that tarpon fishing is getting ready to take off back at home in Sarasota. I have already received several reports of tarpon being jumped and landed from Tampa Bay to Sarasota. I’ll be on the water this week hunting tarpon, which should get even better as we get further away from last week’s full moon.

Tight Lines,
Capt. Rick Grassett

See the original article at GotHunts.com

Taking the Perfect Hero Shot

Cameron Miller is a long-time veteran of Alaska West. He spent a bunch of years guiding and taking pictures, and the past few years has made the transition into nearly full-time photography. If you’re headed to Alaska West this summer, you’ll see slideshows from Cameron at the beginning and the end of your week, and you’ll leave camp with a DVD packed with pictures from your week. Not a bad memento!

Cameron gives a great presentation on how to take hero shots (the classic angler-with-fish pose), and we asked him to summarize his tips in a post.

We now present Cameron Miller on ‘Capturing the Moment’.

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1. Read this list and then have fishing buddies read it. You may know how to get a decent fish pic, but the fact is that you’ve gotta hold the fish while your pal takes the photo.

2. Take a deep breath and calm down. After the excitement of a good fight and the disbelief that you landed a hog, the first instinct of most anglers is to dive into the net and touch the fish. Rushing into the handling of the fish most often leads to a bad case of “Oh-crap-itis.”

3. Tidy yourself up. After a second to catch your breath, give yourself a good once-over. You want to make sure that you look good for the photo so try to have all your zippers up, your pockets closed, and your wader pouch tucked in.

4. Prepare the camera. While you are busy making yourself pretty, have the photographer turn on the camera and make sure the settings are correct. If it is your camera, prepare it for the photographer so that all they have to do is frame you and the fish and push the shutter release button.
5. Get in position. You want to look comfortable when you are holding the fish, so try to avoid awkward positions (such as standing hunched-over trying to hold the fish and look at the camera). The easiest position is to take a knee in about six to eight inches of water.

6. Determine where the sun/light is. Generally you want the sun or the strongest light that is filtering through the clouds behind the photographer. Try to have even light on the angler’s face and on the fish, and if possible frame the shot with a darker background. If the light is strong like with mid-day sun, the fish is going to be by far the brightest object in the frame. Try to hold the fish so that the light reflects off of it with the shallowest angle possible – that is to say have the sun off to the left or right side and not directly behind the photographer.

7. Determine the fish’s good side. Before handling the fish, determine which side of the fish should be presented towards the camera. Obviously you want the side that looks the prettiest and has the fewest scars or marks on it (although sometimes a scar or deformity makes the photo memorable). Usually the mouth and the position of the fly are the most important parts of this equation.

8. Look comfortable. You can always tell the guys who have handled lots of fish because they look like that fish should be in their hands. Try to be comfortable and confident. Smile or don’t smile, look at the camera or look at the head of the fish. It doesn’t really matter – just try not to have the deer-in-the-headlights look.

9. Handle the fish with care. Fish that are being squeezed look like their eyes are going to pop out and their mouths look like they are going to projectile vomit. With a proper grip there is no reason to squeeze the fish.

10. Hide the fingers, leader, and fly line. Try to present as much of the fish as possible to camera. Avoid grips that hide the fish behind fingers and hands. Also, be conscious of where the leader and fly line are and make sure they are not crossing between the camera and fish.

11. Keep the fish close to the water. I believe that fish look more natural close to their home (the water) and that they only need to be lifted out of the water a few inches for a good photo. If the light is good, such as in the early morning or late evening, the reflection of the fish in the water is often present and can add a lot to the photo. Always take photos above water in case the fish is dropped, and avoid completely outstretched arms as if you were a five year old showing off an ice cream cone.

12. Fill the frame. The important things in a hero shot are the angler and the fish. Therefore you want them to fill the frame with just a little bit of the background around the edges to provide spacing. What you don’t want is a scenery shot that has an indiscernible blob of angler and fish in the very center of it.

13. Be quick. Even though this list of tips is long, the process of photographing a fish should be quick. The fish just fought for its life and is stressed and oxygen-deprived. It is not fair to torture it even more just to get a decoration for you desk. Keep the fish in the water until the moment everybody is ready to take the picture. Take a quick picture or two and then put it back in the water and revive it until it swims out of your hand. If the photographer is quick, he can often get a good picture of the revival/release process.

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One last note on reviving fish – in rivers, a fish must be pointed upstream for it to breathe properly. I’m surprised at how many people don’t know this.

With these tips in mind, your next close encounter of the lunker kind will get a photo that not only shows that you are an angler that gets results, but that you look good while you are doing it.

Cheers!

This post by Deneki Outdoors

See the original article at GotHunts.com

Fish Where the Trout are Feeding

When I started fly fishing I had the same romantic notion of the sport that many probably do.  Casting delicate little flies that land softly on the water and watching big fish come up from the depths to sip the offering ever so gently.  Then one day I was on a beautiful clear flowing river on a bright, fall day with no fish rising or even looking at my dry fly presentations.  I was still fairly new to the sport and had only read about fishing nymphs.  I rigged up, from my best recollections of what I had read, and went from casting a small dry to casting two nymphs under a bulky yarn indicator with some split shot.  On my first cast I discovered there was nothing delicate about presenting this setup to fish.  The split shot and the indicator made quite a splash as I tossed the whole get up to the head of a run.  I then discovered that this rig can quickly become a tangled mess of flies, tippet, split shot, and yarn.  There were a few false starts and aggravating intermissions to my fishing as I untangled several rat nests.  I was just beginning to think the hassle wasn’t worth it when I finally got the perfect cast, a good drift, and as the indicator flowed passed a large submerged boulder I saw the white mouth of a rainbow trout open and the indicator gently dipped below the surface.  I set the hook on what at the time was the largest trout I had ever caught.  Since that time I have not become much better at eliminating tangles in the complicated set up but I have discovered that using nymphs can improve your success at times when a dry fly just won’t interest a trout.

While it is fun to pick off rising fish with a dry fly it is good to remember that most of a fish’s feeding takes place sub surface on nymphs.  While it can be discouraging for a beginner to try and manage the double nymph rig it can pay off with more and often larger fish.  It also provides a realistic chance of catching fish under a wider variety of conditions.

The most effective method if I am specifically targeting fish with nymphs is the double nymph rig, as this method allows a very realistic presentation.  This rig starts at the top with an indicator of your choice.  There are many types of indicators and ideas for homemade indicators out there.  Most store bought indicators will be the poly yarn variety.  I like these but have had trouble in choppy water with them staying buoyant enough after becoming submerged in the riffles a couple times.  My personal choice is an appropriately sized Frog Hair Ultimate Adjustable indicator.

They are made of foam; they float well in almost all circumstances, are very responsive to even the lightest of bites, are highly visible, and they are easy to slide up and down your leader to adjust the depth as you move from run to run.  All the things that I feel make a good indicator.  The rule I use for where to put the indicator is usually twice as deep as the water I am fishing and adjust from there depending on the swiftness of the water.  The faster the flow the higher you will want the indicator to allow the nymphs to get to the bottom where the fish will be looking for them.

Once the indicator is in place I tie the top fly on the end of the tippet.  Personally I often use a larger nymph like a stonefly or one with a bead head as my point fly.  The advantage is twofold here.  First a larger fly like the Stonefly nymph or a bead head nymph will provide a little more weight to help get the flies to the bottom quickly.  Second they can serve as an attractor to get the fish’s attention.  Even if it is not exactly what the fish wants a big potential meal like the stonefly of something with some flash like the bead head will catch their eye and may be too much for the fish to resist.  As with everything else though this is just a guideline and if conditions dictate I will deviate from this strategy with different flies.

Once the top fly is chosen and tied on I tie about 12-18 inches of tippet to the bend in the hook and tie my second fly on.  In my experience the second fly will be the one you catch most of your fish on.  My most used patterns here are a small pheasant tail or hare’s ear nymphs.   Obviously your fly choices will again depend on what type of insects hatch on your body of water.

The final but very important step is the split shot.  I place my split shot about 12” above the top fly in my rig.  Start with as little weight as possible and work up as conditions dictate.  Most nymphs live on and under the rocks at the bottom of a river so a fish feeding on nymphs is most likely going to be found on the bottom as well.  You need to get your fly down to where the fish are and that means adding weight.  You will want your flies to be bumping bottom occasionally but not continually hanging up.  Finding this balance will be important to your success.

There is no fast hard rule about where I will fish this rig but the most likely spots I target are in tail outs just below a riffle or in long 3’-4’ deep channels with fast  to medium walking speed current flow.  Other good areas are in current seams where fast current meets a slower current.    I usually cast upstream at about a 45 degree angle and let the flies drift past me making sure to mend the line properly so I don’t get much drag.  Nothing will tip a fish off faster to an imitation than a fly that is streaming instead of drifting.  This is another good use for the indicator as it helps you get a better idea of what the flies beneath the surface are doing.  Since the flies are out of your sight you will have a hard time knowing for sure if you are getting a lot of drag or not without an indicator.  You can be confident that if your indicator is dragging, your flies are also dragging.  If your line is ahead of your indicator it will pull the indicator downstream.  Mend your line as often as needed to keep the line upstream of your indicator to get the most drag free drift.  Simply let your indicator float as drag free as possible for as long as possible.  One exception to this comes at the end of your drift when the flies have drifted past you and are coming to the end of the line.  The current will catch the indicator and the flies and start to pull them towards the surface.  I always let this happen because the rising flies will mimic nymphs that are swimming or floating towards the surface during a hatch.  Fish will sometimes take these nymphs as they make their rise from the bottom of the river to the surface.  I have caught many fish just being patient and letting the current take hold at the end of a drift.

One important thing to remember is that a trout’s take on a drifting nymph can be extremely subtle.  It can be very easy to miss a take as fish seem to be able to mouth your flies while your indicator makes almost no movement.  Keep your eyes on the indicator for any abnormal movement and be ready to take up your slack.  It takes a bit of experience with the set up but you soon develop a sense and can really tell the difference between your fly ticking the bottom and the soft take from a fish.  Generally though, you should probably be thinking fish anytime your indicator moves in a way contrary to what the current is doing.

The Double Nymph rig can be a very productive way to find and catch fish but the one piece of advice I would give to anyone giving it a try is to be patient and slow down.  When casting an outfit with this many moving parts things can get tangled in a hurry.  I was reminded of this advice last week as I broke down and opened the nymph fly box on a slow catching day on my local river.  I had been used to casting tiny Blue Wing Olive, and midge imitations so when I broke out the indicator and the split shot and failed to adjust my casting accordingly I found myself wasting a lot of time undoing big knots.  Each tangle made me more frustrated, which made me tense up even more, which did not improve my casting.  After an half an hour of fighting against myself and gritting my teeth at tangle after tangle, I was able to slow myself down and shorten my casts and wouldn’t you know it, I hooked right into a good fish.  It reaffirmed the lesson I learned years ago on that fall day, that knowing how to fish nymphs can turn a frustrating skunking into a great day on the river in a hurry.

See the original article at BaseCampLegends.com